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		<title>Airstream Forums - Fresh Water Systems</title>
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			<title>CPVC Question</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/cpvc-question-58624.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:38:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a question. Has anyone tried 
using 1/2" CPVC instead of PEX to 
replace the original copper water lines. 
CPVC is the "hot water variety" and has 
some good properties. It could be used 
on both hot and cold lines. 
  
Question: Has it been tried? 
Question: What do you think?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a question. Has anyone tried<br />
using 1/2&quot; CPVC instead of PEX to<br />
replace the original copper water lines.<br />
CPVC is the &quot;hot water variety&quot; and has<br />
some good properties. It could be used<br />
on both hot and cold lines.<br />
 <br />
Question: Has it been tried?<br />
Question: What do you think?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/">Fresh Water Systems</category>
			<dc:creator>kennethowens</dc:creator>
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			<title>soldered copper vs. compression fittings</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/soldered-copper-vs-compression-fittings-58606.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:35:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>installing my new fresh water tank, I found that one of the old soldered fittings had someone worked loose- I went to move the tubing, the fitting started to rotate and came apart.  SO, I replaced the whole little spider of pipes going into the tank, the gate valve for the drain and the drain. ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>installing my new fresh water tank, I found that one of the old soldered fittings had someone worked loose- I went to move the tubing, the fitting started to rotate and came apart.  SO, I replaced the whole little spider of pipes going into the tank, the gate valve for the drain and the drain.  I've sweat soldered miles of pipe in my life, but somehow thought I'd use compression fittings instead. Maybe to avoid using the torch in such close quarters, or maybe because I think the comp fittings are cool, but I wondered if anyone else had had soldered fittings work loose over years and years?  It was the full, half inch depth of the joint that came loose and twisted out.  I thought that the comp fittings give you the opportunity to fix stuff if there is a problem, rather than having to deal with soldering.  Thoughts are appreciated.<br />
<br />
Peter</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/">Fresh Water Systems</category>
			<dc:creator>Globie64</dc:creator>
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			<title>Tank Monitor replacement - digital</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/tank-monitor-replacement-digital-58532.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:35:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>OK, I admit I mentioned doing this a couple years ago. One good thing about snow and cold--it encourages/allows you to get back in the lab. 
  
Very short tutorial: the older 70s, and earlier, tank monitors use four wires to report the water level to a circuit card with small light bulbs that...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>OK, I admit I mentioned doing this a couple years ago. One good thing about snow and cold--it encourages/allows you to get back in the lab.<br />
 <br />
Very short tutorial: the older 70s, and earlier, tank monitors use four wires to report the water level to a circuit card with small light bulbs that illuminate to crudely indicate fluid level. The newer 70s (I don't know when it changed, but some time between 72 and 75) use two wires to send a varying voltage (5 steps, which is a bit more resolution than the 4-wire system) which drives small analog meters. Although these methods are very different from an electrical standpoint, a very similar circuit can be built to detect the two different kinds of inputs and turn on LEDs in the same way the old system turned on the light bulbs.<br />
 <br />
Note: the following description is preliminary and will most likely be modified once I can make the first prototype. This information is posted so that others can make inputs, both improvements and corrections. <i><b>I'd rather have a correction than a smoke test.</b></i><br />
 <br />
Two-wire system: this system has four sensor probes and one driver probe. Using resistors in series with the probes, the four sensor probes can provide 5 output levels (the fifth level is zero--no contact with water). Here's where I might need a little help--it's too cold here to experimentally fill and empty my tanks, so had to improvise in the lab. When I used 9 volts to drive the probes, I got the following outputs. If you measure and existing set of probes that are connected to 12 volts, you should get something like the numbers in the right column.<blockquote><a href="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=91056" target="_blank">Attachment 91056</a><br />
</blockquote>For reference, this is the schematic of the original meter circuit:<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=91061" target="_blank">Attachment 91061</a><br />
 <br />
A quad voltage comparator can be used to detect the voltage input level and turn on an LED ladder. It's a very inexpensive circuit, around $6 per tank, plus the experimenters punch board from some place like Radio Shack. Laying out a printed circuit board is helpful in seeing how it might look, even if it's made by hand. It looks like the total board area is 3&quot;x3&quot;. The LED columns are 1&quot; appart and are 0.9&quot; long.<br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=91058" target="_blank">Attachment 91058</a> <a href="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=91057" target="_blank">Attachment 91057</a><br />
 <br />
The four-wire (older) version is very similar, but a bit simpler. As each sensor contacts water, its LED illuminates. <br />
 <br />
<a href="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=91060" target="_blank">Attachment 91060</a> <a href="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=91059" target="_blank">Attachment 91059</a><br />
 <br />
The board would function only when a &quot;press to test&quot; switch is pushed. I've considerd putting in a switch with a momentary function and an &quot;on&quot; function. All the LEDs would illuminate at the water level and below (eg, all the LEDs below the current level would also illuminate). Any input on alternate functionality will be considered. :)  BTW, there is a reason for using 9V as the (+) power--the HF meters work off of 9V and I intend to rip a couple of those suckers apart to provide an indication of battery voltage and current. More on that mod later.<br />
 <br />
Zep</div>


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]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/">Fresh Water Systems</category>
			<dc:creator>Zeppelinium</dc:creator>
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			<title>Scale from Kitchen faucet</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/scale-from-kitchen-faucet-58305.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2009 20:56:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My 77 Overlander is spitting large amounts of green metalic scale from the kitchen faucet. I know this stuff is metalic because it will sit in the bottom of a dish or the sink will barely rinse off the surfaces. Don't have this problem in the bathroom. This stuff will plug up the aireator in a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My 77 Overlander is spitting large amounts of green metalic scale from the kitchen faucet. I know this stuff is metalic because it will sit in the bottom of a dish or the sink will barely rinse off the surfaces. Don't have this problem in the bathroom. This stuff will plug up the aireator in a heart beat.<br />
 <br />
The single handle faucet doesn't supply any hot water and I'm wondering if it's just the cartridge? I have a replacement but haven't installed as I'd like to not have a rats nest project on my hands w/o feed back from this forum.<br />
 <br />
TIA</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/">Fresh Water Systems</category>
			<dc:creator>77Overlander</dc:creator>
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			<title>How To Get to a Leak?</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/how-to-get-to-a-leak-58161.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 23:13:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Our latest project is a 73 Overlander.  It really is in great shape.  The PO really took care of it.  He passed and I believe some freezing occured.  I know I have a fresh water leak under the tub, another under the sink. 
The sink is not a problem.   
I really hate to pull out the tub or flooring...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Our latest project is a 73 Overlander.  It really is in great shape.  The PO really took care of it.  He passed and I believe some freezing occured.  I know I have a fresh water leak under the tub, another under the sink.<br />
The sink is not a problem.  <br />
I really hate to pull out the tub or flooring because it is in such great shape.  That was confirmed when we ripped out the carpet. From other posts I could pull back the exterior to see what I have going on?  What about underneath?<br />
It's sealed like a drum, I almost hate to do anything.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/">Fresh Water Systems</category>
			<dc:creator>NashBuff</dc:creator>
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			<title>Is it possible ?</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/is-it-possible-58057.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:29:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Is it possible for a fresh water tank to drain itself into a grey water tank inside the belly ? 
  
          I could be wrong, but I thought my grey water tank was empty a week ago but today it had 6 or 8 gallons in it. 
  
          My fresh water tank seems to be empty and I thought it had a few...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Is it possible for a fresh water tank to drain itself into a grey water tank inside the belly ?<br />
 <br />
          I could be wrong, but I thought my grey water tank was empty a week ago but today it had 6 or 8 gallons in it.<br />
 <br />
          My fresh water tank seems to be empty and I thought it had a few gallons left but not sure.<br />
 <br />
          Nothing is leaking or running inside camper, pump is off and has been off for a couple weeks.<br />
 <br />
          Does anyone know of a picture or drawing showing approx how the grey, black and fresh water tanks are made on a 2000 excella ?<br />
 <br />
          Thanks,<br />
 <br />
           Robbie R.:)</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/">Fresh Water Systems</category>
			<dc:creator>Robbie R.</dc:creator>
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			<title>Larger water tank</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/larger-water-tank-57975.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:32:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We have a 22' 2003 CCD.   
The size is perfect for us save one thing - the water capacity. 
We enjoy boondocking so must use containers in the back of our pickup for refilling.  Our propane capacity is fine for a week of camping but the water only lasts a few days - even being conservative in our...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We have a 22' 2003 CCD.  <br />
The size is perfect for us save one thing - the water capacity.<br />
We enjoy boondocking so must use containers in the back of our pickup for refilling.  Our propane capacity is fine for a week of camping but the water only lasts a few days - even being conservative in our usage.<br />
Has anyone pulled the existing tank and replaced with a larger one?  Is there room?  Would it also require a larger holding tank or can we get away without that for gray water?<br />
Any ideas would be appreciated.<br />
Thanks, Charlotte</div>

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			<dc:creator>Charlotte</dc:creator>
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