<![CDATA[Airstream Forums - Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes]]> http://www.airforums.com/forums/ en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:48:07 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.airforums.com/ugala/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[Airstream Forums - Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes]]> http://www.airforums.com/forums/ Michael Miller Trailer Fabric http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/michael-miller-trailer-fabric-58372.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 04:11:01 GMT Airsteam. More here. Judy]]> It even features an Airsteam.

More here.

Judy ]]> jwvastine http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/michael-miller-trailer-fabric-58372.html <![CDATA[Need 70's Bronze Metal Trim]]> http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/need-70s-bronze-metal-trim-58322.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 04:06:12 GMT Don't try this at home folks. Have a (lousy) carpenter work on your Airstream trim with a hacksaw. So I'm looking for about a 6' strip of the Bronze corner edging to do this right. Haven't found anything that matcher from the new sources so perhaps someone out there who has gutted one has this.

What happened is I decided to reshape the curve to make the trailer a little more open when we replaced the panel. The rest was up to the carpenter who came up with a creative fix HELP!
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]]> RichHog http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/need-70s-bronze-metal-trim-58322.html AirDrapes 101 http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/airdrapes-101-a-58259.html Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:19:41 GMT Recently I have had a chance to really examine closely some Airstream drapes (many thanx to BillTex!!) off of the windows and examine how they were made, and I thought I'd share a few observations. In a previous life I was an interior designer and owned a store with drapery workroom and have had extensive experience with window treatments. These are traditional pinch-pleats, but the difference of course is that the pleats parallel each other on the top AND the bottom edge. They are smaller pleats than normal, but the size of the pleat is determined by the material used (the sheerer the fabric, the more fabric you put in the pleat for a lux look, while you make a less full pleat in thicker fabrics to reduce bulk). By keeping the pleat scant, besides making them cheaper to produce, Airstream is keeping the folds smaller and therefore also the projection into the cabin will be smaller....and also, short windows call for shorter pleats to maintain the proportion!

Airstream used a rayon (dry-clean!) moire fabric (has a "water-marked" pattern) and lined them with Roc-lon (name brand) 100% cotton "Rain-no-Stain", which sheds water from condensation and is mildew-resistant (to a certain point). Inserted into the "heading" (the top and bottom edge that has the pleats) is a mid-weight "buckram" or stiffener to make the pleats stand stiffly and not fall over. There are clips that fit into the aluminum "runners" on the walls above and below the window. The clips are looped thru 1/2" elastic, and the elastic is sewn into the draperies in the flat section in between each pleat (machine stitched across the elastic for approx. 1/2") so that the plastic hook dangles toward the outside top or bottom edge. So from the "right side' of the draperies you can see the 1/2" of stitching horizontally in the space between pleats...but the thread is color-matched and it is not unsightly. When installing, you slide the pleats on the top and bottom (you unscrew the end caps at the ends of the rail to expose the end of the track) and the elastic will hold the drapes taut so they aren't slouching forward into the cabin, thus maximizing the shelf space that is usable, and also making the interior feel more spacious (a problem I have with roller blinds or curtains that are not "held back"...they eat up too much space spacially and visually!)

First, I'll address those of you that want to restore it in an original manner. The original moire was of rayon, which I would not do again! Rayons and cottons do not hold up well in sunlight, and the dyes will fade in stripes (the back sides of the pleats). You CAN find 100% poly moires that will give an identical look without the sunlight degradation and the shrinkage. Make sure you (or your fabricator) uses a poly non-woven buckram for stiffness, and a poly lining (you always want to match your lining to your face fabric. Keep your fullness scanty like Airstream did...no more than 2 to 1 fullness (width of area x 2 then pleats are divided evenly along the width) or mabe even 1.5x. Airstream did not make a compensation in the fact that the top drapery bracket will undoubtedly be wider than the bottom because of the curvature of the walls. If you want to be like the original, just make them straight. On the newer AS's (these drapes came from a 1989....14 years "younger" than my 1975 Excella) there were apparently snaps on the ends and velcros...but I have no such snaps on the ends for mine, so I don't know when that started. Look on your chassis if your trailer is newer than 1975 and judge for yourself if you will be using those.

For those of us not totally needing to be "original", I would definitely advise getting out and hunting down some of the gorgeous new polyesters available for drapery.....an independent drapery workroom can show you samples...especially the books made for commercial jobs (restaurants, stores) have patterns as vivid and beautiful as any cotton, but the advantage will be 98-99% resistance to the sun damage that fades and shreds the fibers of cottons or rayons. The large chain stores like Cotton Gin, Joanne's and such often have some great selections of poly fabrics. Match all the accessories in poly to (never mix! shrinkage will differ and the lining will shred from sun while the face fabric will look brand new...) You can mix the treatments and look a tad more updated...like romans on the straight windows and the pinch-pleats on the rounded windows...but use the same fabric to lend conhesiveness.

You can also think "outside the box" if you can sew...for example:


-There are beautiful newer pleats other than pinch pleats...butterflies, goblets, french, inverted, box ,etc.

-you could use quilts for "flat drape" panels, lined on the back, which would be fabulous for insulation

-You can make mylar panels which could be velcroed on and off of the back of your drapes/panels to insulate form heat and/or cold


-Get a book and read how to make a "top-down, bottom-up" roman blind which can be raised up or lowered from the top for privacy. (Those of you not familiar may have to re-read and chew on that one LOL) Make a tiny valance for the top to hide the rail.



-For those of you wishing for a lighter look, try blinds/roman/cellulars/skylight cells on the windows, and use stationary shirred or pleated panels on the rails around the curved walls for softening and better acoustics (I'm a music nut and the acoustics matter to me).

-Or put in mini-blinds and make the curtains all shirred sheers instead of drapes...you can buy shirring tape which pulls up with 2 to 5 strings to create beautiful shirred pattterns at top and bottom..you still push and pull them to open and close and still use the plastic doo-hickeys, but they'll always be evenly gathered (usually you have a 3x fullness with sheers).

-There are some marvelous metallic sheers for those of you into a more modern, aluminum look...from colored or neutral backgrounds with small bursts of metalica to more overall metallics...and get it in 100% poly, which most of them are made of anyway.

-You could make balloon shades with a very scant fullness (you DON"T want huge balloons billowing into your cabin, hitting on the back of your head LOL) Make the balloon shades in a lace and it'll look like sheers when down and valences when drawn up.


-There are companies that will put your photos or images on mini-blinds...or use their stock designs, which include anything from landscapes to sports scenes to galaxies ,etc. They can be very striking. I once saw a room that had a wall of windows done with scenes of a tropical rain forest...beautiful. Use Google search.

The only reason that I have stalled so long in figuring our what I want is the curvature..I LOVE my pull-up/pull-down skylight blinds in my Fun Finder TT, but the tracks obviously won't do on a curved wall. I kind of feel like the living room NEEDS the softness of the fabric, both accoustically and for the comfort factor (should knock off some chill and be cosier) BUT I dislike the dust retention. BUT then, remember that these new polys are very washable, so there's not reason you can't whip them off from time to time and wash 'em.


A member mentioned using the drapes with vertical blinds inside...but they will not operate if the bottom edge is attached to the bottom track...the material must allow the vanes to swivel in order to open and/or close...you could sew it across the bottom and use the clips, but then you couldn't open it up!


OK..so this is just a few things off the top of the head...all is extremely subjective and strictly MY personal opinion. Others will argue that cotton is perfectly fine, and I say that if you are there to keep the blinds open and shut as needed, they will last longer. But if you are in extreme sunlight/heat, the fabric will not stand up for long in a cotton. Humidity can make some cottons sag and/or shrink. I have seen the colors in cottons bleach out in as little as 5 years. I don't know about you, but I do NOT want to have to go thru this every five years!

Don't forget that you can also have custom bedspreads quilted up, make cushions for your chair, cushions for a booth, pillows, and many other coordinates to go along with whatever you decide on. You can also alter store-bought drapery, but that sometimes is more time-consuming than making new. if you are planning on sewing these yourself, I heartily advise you to make a sample panel...it is well worth it to ensure that you like the pleat size, the fullness, the way the fabric design looks when shirred, and the fit.


I just wanna find my comfort-zone, get it right, and look at it for the next 15-20 years!


Sorry..Rick and I have to run to the football game!
Susan ]]> obxgal http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/airdrapes-101-a-58259.html Wallpaper border application http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/wallpaper-border-application-58193.html Wed, 04 Nov 2009 23:07:59 GMT I am ready to replace the border trim in the bathroom, old stuff peeled off easy, now the problem is how to put the new stuff on. It is vinyl coated prepasted wallpaper. Directions say don't use prepaste on vinyl, but use vinyl glue. I don't want it to fall off, but I also don't want it on so strong that it can't be replaced when it looks shabby like the last stuff.
It will be just above sink across back almost like a backsplash.
Any solutions? Thanks ]]> DaveFL http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/wallpaper-border-application-58193.html Removing paint and skim coat http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/removing-paint-and-skim-coat-58191.html Wed, 04 Nov 2009 20:15:43 GMT Any thoughts on removing paint and joint compound from vinyl wall covering? We have a '67 Overlander and PO tried to smooth the vinyl texture:huh: Don't know why, but it is a pain to remove. Have been using Citristrip and green scrubbies, but it's getting old fast. Thanks. ]]> 67twinkie http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/removing-paint-and-skim-coat-58191.html Zolatone http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/zolatone-58156.html Tue, 03 Nov 2009 20:34:03 GMT I have a 65 Caravel, and am thinking of going ahead and re-painting the interior w/ Zolatone. I know there has been quite a bit of discussion on the subject....can anyone tell me the closest present day Zolatone colors to the original? I have a 65 Caravel, and am thinking of going ahead and re-painting the interior w/ Zolatone. I know there has been quite a bit of discussion on the subject....can anyone tell me the closest present day Zolatone colors to the original? ]]> GJP http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/zolatone-58156.html Interior ABS nose piece for ceiling http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/interior-abs-nose-piece-for-ceiling-58138.html Tue, 03 Nov 2009 14:22:36 GMT I had roof damage and they ABS is top fragile to repair anyone know where I can order that piece? It doe's not have to be from 1977 sovereign it can be newer since I believe they have not changed much over the years. ]]> Mrcrowley http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/interior-abs-nose-piece-for-ceiling-58138.html Interior walls - looking 4 a materials supplier http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/interior-walls-looking-4-a-materials-supplier-58044.html Sat, 31 Oct 2009 15:11:34 GMT I have a 1979 Argosy with vinyl over aluminum at the interior walls. I am looking for a supplier who can sell me some of the vinyl or some of the panels with the vinyl on them.

I beleive the material is called "thermo bonded vinyl."

Any information on the availability of either material would be appreciated ]]> gonorthwest http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/interior-walls-looking-4-a-materials-supplier-58044.html