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		<title>Airstream Forums - Classic Motorhomes</title>
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		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:22:05 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Airstream Forums - Classic Motorhomes</title>
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			<title>Beefing up the hitch on 345</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/beefing-up-the-hitch-on-345-a-58530.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:57:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Two questions; 
  
1 - Do I need to disconnect the batteries before welding on the coach? 
  
2 - Does anyone have pictures of what they did to theirs?   
     I searched and did not find pictures of this. 
  
I have a good picture of how I want to do this in my head, but I am always open to others...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Two questions;<br />
 <br />
1 - Do I need to disconnect the batteries before welding on the coach?<br />
 <br />
2 - Does anyone have pictures of what they did to theirs?  <br />
     I searched and did not find pictures of this.<br />
 <br />
I have a good picture of how I want to do this in my head, but I am always open to others ideas.  I always tell my guys at work to tell me their thoughts because I am a believer in working smarter not harder.<br />
 <br />
Thanks<br />
Chuck</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/">Classic Motorhomes</category>
			<dc:creator>ccetex</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[Where's furnace fuse?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/wheres-furnace-fuse-58500.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 01:29:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been trying to get the furnace to light, but to no avail.  The blower starts but blows cold air.  I attempted about 5 or 6 times, now the blower doesn't even start up anymore.  I checked fuses at the Univolt, and all are good.  The book doesn't state there are any furnace fuses in the fuse box...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've been trying to get the furnace to light, but to no avail.  The blower starts but blows cold air.  I attempted about 5 or 6 times, now the blower doesn't even start up anymore.  I checked fuses at the Univolt, and all are good.  The book doesn't state there are any furnace fuses in the fuse box up front, so what do I do?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/">Classic Motorhomes</category>
			<dc:creator>Astrodokk</dc:creator>
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			<title>size, propane tank in a 1989 345 ? working gauge</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/size-propane-tank-in-a-1989-345-working-gauge-58484.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 14:47:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We spent the past week in the coach on the farm near Edison Ohio 
 
The previous owner said they filled the Propane tank before our trip to Texas to pick her up. Now with Two new furnaces installed by Jr's RV. service in Findlay Ohio and a week of cool nights camping we had a chance to utilize some...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We spent the past week in the coach on the farm near Edison Ohio<br />
<br />
The previous owner said they filled the Propane tank before our trip to Texas to pick her up. Now with Two new furnaces installed by Jr's RV. service in Findlay Ohio and a week of cool nights camping we had a chance to utilize some propane and the furnaces.<br />
<br />
After 4 days, with the gauge still showing FULL I became suspicious of the accuracy of the reading and figured, run them till the tank empties. <br />
<br />
So Friday morning we woke to an inside temp of 40 and an empty Propane tank<br />
<br />
We drove a Mile to Landmark 0n rt. 95 and they put in 28.5 lbs for $71. Plus tax.<br />
<br />
also eating breakfast at McDonald's next door, Handy  !!!<br />
<br />
So are these 30 Lb. tanks and can we feed these with 20 or 30 lb portable bottles so we can have a more extended stay ??<br />
<br />
I do think I saw someone ask in another thread about a portable Nurse Tank hook up to the coach mounted tank ???</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/">Classic Motorhomes</category>
			<dc:creator>John Haggard</dc:creator>
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			<title>Can I?</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/can-i-58468.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 23:28:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I may just be computer stupid but I have a hard time searching for things here so here is my question.   
  
Can I run my generator while driving? 
  
Chuck</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I may just be computer stupid but I have a hard time searching for things here so here is my question.  <br />
 <br />
Can I run my generator while driving?<br />
 <br />
Chuck</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/">Classic Motorhomes</category>
			<dc:creator>ccetex</dc:creator>
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			<title>Water hose reel repair</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/water-hose-reel-repair-58391.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:05:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Streamers, 
I have just finished resealing my fresh water hose reel assembly. IT CAN BE DONE!  
One of the biggest problems with gaining access to the reel is taking the lower part of the reel bin apart:angry:. I found that a 50/50 mixture of _Acetone_ and _automatic transmission fluid_ will...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Streamers,<br />
I have just finished resealing my fresh water hose reel assembly. IT CAN BE DONE! <br />
One of the biggest problems with gaining access to the reel is taking the lower part of the reel bin apart:angry:. I found that a 50/50 mixture of <u>Acetone</u> and <u>automatic transmission fluid</u> will penetrate the rusted bolts, so they will come apart with no trouble:D. Really, you must give it a try. Just make sure you do not get it on your paint.<br />
Start by removing the 7 bolts that hold the lower bin section on, and get it out of the way.<br />
Use the mixture on the two self locking nuts on the back side of the bin that hold the reel. I put a floor jack under the reel to support it as the bolts were removed. Unscrew the lower union nut on the plastic water line. Make sure you do not put any strain on the plastic. With the help of a screwdriver, you can then slide the plastic tube off of the union. Make sure the reel is in the &quot;locked&quot; position, and take the lower hose roller loose to get the end of the hose out. With the reel out of the coach, now the repair is easy.<br />
With care, let all of the spring tension unwind from the reel by letting the mount rotate slowly until it wants to stop. Mark the orientation of the fitting, and remove the plastic 90 degree fitting from the hose shaft. Loosen the lock nut on the large set screw, and remove the set screw. Now pull the mount off of the reel shaft. Once the mount is removed, take spring holder loose from the reel by removing the small nuts around the outer edge, and pull it off of the reel.<br />
Now turn the reel over and remove the hose from the brass adapter. Remove the spigot from the end of brass adapter. Remove the snap ring from the end of the shaft, and pull the shaft out of the brass adapter. Remove the 3 small nuts holding the brass adapter to the reel, and remove.<br />
I cleaned up the inside of the brass adapter with some very fine sandpaper. The two O rings on the shaft are standard O rings that are available at Ace Hardware. I replaced the drain spigot with a brass pipe plug and Teflon tape. Get a pipe plug that fits the other end of the shaft as well. (The end the plastic 90 goes into). This is a good time to replace your hose. Get the best 25 footer you can.<br />
To reassemble, start by attaching the new hose to the brass adapter with a new hose seal, and let the hose lay out through the opening in the reel. Attach the brass adapter to the reel with the 3 small nuts. Be careful to not over torque the nuts. Lube the new O rings with silicone grease, as well as the shaft, and the inside of the brass adapter. Slide the O rings onto the shaft into their locations. Carefully slide the shaft into the brass adapter, and replace the snap ring. The pipe plug should already be installed in this end of the shaft.<br />
Now the spring holder is installed onto the reel, being careful to not over torque the small nuts. Looking at the mount end of the shaft, you will notice that there is a small relief in the shaft where the set screw will seat. Mark the end of the shaft with a marker so the relief can be lined up with the set screw. Slide the mount onto the shaft, and install the set screw. Tighten the screw and then the lock nut.<br />
To do a leak test, install the other pipe plug into the shaft loosely. Hook the hose to a water source. Let the air out of the unit by loosening that last plug. No leaks...good. Wind the spring back up by holding the reel and winding the mount. If there seems to be no tension, you are going the wrong way. It will only wind up in one direction. I think I wound mine up about 12-15 rotations. Put the reel in the &quot;locked' position.<br />
Now the unit is ready to put back into the coach.<br />
Install the plastic 90 into the shaft with teflon tape, and put back to it's original orientation. As you jack up the reel into the coach, just slide the plastic tube back onto the union. Leave the union loose until the two reel mount bolts are tight, then tighten the union nut. Put the hose through the rollers, and now you can pull the hose to unlock the reel and let it wind up. Replace the lower bin section, and you are done.<br />
Good luck and have fun, Rob<br />
Pictures to follow.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/">Classic Motorhomes</category>
			<dc:creator>Robfike</dc:creator>
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			<title>What Do You Get When You Combine...</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/what-do-you-get-when-you-combine-58297.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2009 16:23:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[A vintage 1984 Airstream Funeral Coach and a state of the art German Putting Analysis Computer Setup? 
 
You get a rolling PuttLab. 
 
That's right folks Airstream One is now a rolling Science and Motion Sports, SAM PuttLab. 
Image: http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p248/GlenCoombe/SAMFront.jpg ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>A vintage 1984 Airstream Funeral Coach and a state of the art German Putting Analysis Computer Setup?<br />
<br />
You get a rolling PuttLab.<br />
<br />
That's right folks Airstream One is now a rolling Science and Motion Sports, SAM PuttLab.<br />
<img src="http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p248/GlenCoombe/SAMFront.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
After installing the new floating hardwood floor my friends at Truline Putting Greens sent me a raw roll of their putting mat material.  I carved it into a manageable 13' mat that when laid out becomes a &quot;tour fast&quot; surface to test on.<br />
<br />
Early this year I began to represent Science and Motion in the SE USA and have been introducing the equipment to golf instructors.  The equipment is ultra-sound based and allows the instructor to quantify 28 parameters in the putting stroke. it is the absolute state of the art in putting analysis.<br />
<br />
With the ability to test in the bus I don't have to worry about the weather and some of the tour pros I work with don't have to worry about being seen testing.  In fact Denis Watson the winner of the 2007 US PGA Senior Championship was the first to test in Airstream One last month in Cary, NC. His performance that week placed him 5th with better putting than his year to date prior to working with me on the SAM.<br />
<br />
The software is installed on the wall mounted computer and results are displayed on the new 25&quot; HD LCD. (that's the old 20&quot; monitor now deceased)<br />
<img src="http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p248/GlenCoombe/SAMDoorway.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
Now you all know some of what I do on the road with my Airstream.<br />
<img src="http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p248/GlenCoombe/SAM10Foot.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></div>

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			<dc:creator>GlenCoombe</dc:creator>
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			<title>Mirror!  Eyes Right!</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/mirror-eyes-right-58088.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 23:52:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Well, the inevitable stupidity has occurred, and I have stripped off the shotgun side mirror on a bit of sturdy bamboo, backing up in the dark. Did I mention the time change? 
1991 AS 350 LE, with power mirrors....... 
Does anyone know if Ramco still carries the plastic plate to which the mirror...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Well, the inevitable stupidity has occurred, and I have stripped off the shotgun side mirror on a bit of sturdy bamboo, backing up in the dark. Did I mention the time change?<br />
1991 AS 350 LE, with power mirrors.......<br />
Does anyone know if Ramco still carries the plastic plate to which the mirror base housing is attached.  What I call the mirror base housing is the bit of plastic screwed to the AS, which shears off so well--and keeps the mirror from tearing off the side panel.<br />
<br />
Ralley</div>

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			<dc:creator>ralley</dc:creator>
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			<title>Brought the 89 345LE home Friday</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/brought-the-89-345le-home-friday-58085.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 21:56:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Brought her home Friday and have not stoped smiling yet. :):) 
  
Here are some pictures, hope this works.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Brought her home Friday and have not stoped smiling yet. :):)<br />
 <br />
Here are some pictures, hope this works.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/">Classic Motorhomes</category>
			<dc:creator>ccetex</dc:creator>
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			<title>Battery Tray Repair</title>
			<link>http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/battery-tray-repair-57991.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:17:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I knew our battery tray was deteriorating but I guess I didn't realize just how bad it was until I crawled underneath to take a peak.  From the pictures you can see what I'm talking about. 
 
Attachment 89945 (http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=89945) Attachment 89946...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I knew our battery tray was deteriorating but I guess I didn't realize just how bad it was until I crawled underneath to take a peak.  From the pictures you can see what I'm talking about.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=89945" target="_blank">Attachment 89945</a> <a href="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=89946" target="_blank">Attachment 89946</a><br />
<br />
I removed the battery tray this evening to start prepping it for some much needed repair.  Plans are to remove the remains of the floor, sandblast  all exposed and rusty areas, fabricate a new floor, paint and then reinstall in the coach.<br />
<br />
On a previous post by a forum member they mentioned that when they repaired the floor of their battery tray they made it a couple of inches deeper.  I'm looking into doing the same thing.  I'll make a sketch of what I would like to do and have a local fabricator bend up the pieces for me and I'll weld them in place.<br />
<br />
One thing I'm wondering about is the large 2&quot; diameter holes in the bottom of the tray.  Are those really necessary?  I would think they would allow a lot of road grime to enter the compartment.<br />
<br />
While the tray is out I'm going to go through all of the electrical connections in the area as they were all looking a little cruddy.<br />
<br />
I'll post again as progress is made.<br />
<br />
Brad</div>


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