Day 36, Camp 17 - Rio Grande Village Campground, Big Bend National Park, Marathon, TX

2009/12/21 - (9 nights at $7 per night)
Day 36, Camp 17
Rio Grande Village Campground
Big Bend National Park, Marathon, TX

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We left Alpine and re-traced our route 32 miles back to Marathon. I just wanted to enter the park on US 385. It seemed like it would be a bit more scenic that heading down SR 118 from Alpine. Maybe 'six-of-one, half-dozen-of-the-other' sort of deal. The park boundary is about 50 miles south from Marathon, whereas about 80 miles from Alpine. The road back to Marathon looked better than the day before for some reason. Closer and closer into mountains as we headed south on US 385, I was amazed at the rocks and the land... and to think this is just the beginning of our time in the desert Southwest! We entered the park and saved another $20 with our 'America-the-Beautiful' card. That $10 investment has paid for itself so many times over I can't even calculate. Best $10 we ever spent! We stopped at Panther Junction, the main visitor center, to gather info and maps, then headed another 20 miles down to the Rio Grande Village Campground. It's the biggest campground in the park, with store, gas, groceries, dump, etc. There are no 'hook-ups' anywhere in the park, with the exception of here, where there is a full hook-up RV area run by the concessionaire at $29 per night. All park campgrounds are $14 per night, we got half off. All campgrounds have fresh water available, sometimes by hose at the dump station. All have 'spigots' but no hook-ups. (I carry mine to the trailer in a four-gallon container, when I need to re-fill for extended stay). We found a nice, cozy, quiet spot... way in the back, snuggled in the Mesquite trees, out of the main area. The main area is very open, but nicely shaded with Cottonwood trees. The picnic area as well, was full of Cottonwoods... ablaze in their golden winter finery. I never knew they did that I also never knew that Mesquite can grow into a sizable tree. I always though it was just a desert scrub. Here by the river, where there is more water, I saw Mesquite over twenty feet tall and nearly 2 feet in diameter!
Big Bend is in the northern limits of the Chihuahuan Desert (which extends far into Mexico)... one of the four deserts in the USA (can you name them? A very unique environment... with many species of cactus, birds, Javelina, Mountain Lion, Black Bear. The Lechiguilla Cactus grows only here. Beautiful country... hot, prickly, rocky... so very alien and wonderful. You're not in Michigan anymore Phantom!
Next day we drove up to Chisos Basin and hiking the Basin Loop Trail, then had dinner at the lodge restaurant. Million dollar view! Both form the trail AND the restaurant! The only cell phone signal in the park is at the main visitor center at Panther Junction. The only internet connection (Wi-Fi) is at the Chisos Basin Lodge/Restaurant. This makes for some tricky planning when you need to communicate with the outside world Plan ahead. Rio Grande Village to Panther Junction is 20 miles... 10 miles from Panther up to Chisos.
Next day we drove to Dugout Wells and hiked the short Nature Trail... looking at all the various types of cactus. Amazed that the early pioneers could eek out a living in this environment. Then we drove to Boquillas Canyon and hiked the trail down to the river. Amazing rock formations and canyon. Heard Victor the singing Mexican. All along the American side are walking sticks and trinkets for sale. The Mexicans place then on any tourist trail near the river... cross over and collect the money left in jars. Before 9/11 there was a very loose... 'fluid' border crossing here at Boquillas. The name of the small Mexican town on the other side. They would send a row boat over and bring tourists over for dinner, etc. They have lost their income with the border now closed at these informal crossing points.
Next day we hiked the nature trail by the campground. Saw a 'Says Phoebe' and Common Raven. Then drove to the Hot Springs and hiked the trail down the river to the spring. Had a nice soak. Talked to some locals from Terlingua, a little 'ghost town' just outside the park to the west. Saw historic buildings and pictographs on the cliffs... along with Cliff Swallow nests! (they were gone further south for the winter). Talked to our neighbors Cliff & Carol from Albuquerque... shared some wine and wished them a Merry Christmas Eve.
Christmas we hung out and had a nice dinner in camp. Did laundry and showered at the store. A good day to get clean.
Next day we drove up to Chisos Basin again. Used the phone at Panther Junction on the way. Had lunch at the Chisos Basin Lodge. Saw Scaled Quail, Canyon Wren, Rock Wren, Road Runners, Cottontail Rabbit and 'Sierra del Carmen' White-tailed Deer... a smaller sub-species from the Sierra del Carmen mountains of Mexico.
Next day we hiked a bit of the trail from Daniels Ranch to the Hot Springs... along the Rio Grande cliffs. Saw female Pyrrhuloxia, Sage Thrasher and White-throated Swifts by the dozens... swooping over the river in the evenings.
Next day we drove to Panther Junction to make banking calls, then out the Grapevine Road... six miles of rough gravel to hike 2+ miles out to Balanced Rock. It was cool. Went back to the Hot Springs for another relaxing dip. Saw Black-throated Sparrows and White-winged Doves, Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, Ladder-backed Woodpeckers and a Black-crested Titmouse! Obviously, Big Bend is a great birding location in the winter... with over 350 species. It is also one of the 'darkest' places in the country... great for star-gazing. (Check out a 'light pollution' map of the country at night, by satellite).
Next day it had rained overnight and drizzle continued most of the day. Generated electricity and read.
Next day we moved camp up to the Chisos Basin.