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Custom 3” lift kit

Posted 08-21-2018 at 08:04 PM by GMFL
Updated 11-15-2018 at 02:55 PM by GMFL

I built a custom 3” lift kit using 3”x3” 1/4” wall square tubing. The square tubing allowed me to run the propane line that goes to the water heater through the lift block avoiding the problem of rerouting it under the axle. Blocks are 10” long and I just measured a matched the existing holes in the frame and axle. I was able to drill the blocks with a standard bit and drill press, taking care to keep the bit cool with oil and keep steady firm pressure while drilling. I used all new grade 8 bolts with nylon lock nuts. Torqued to 140 foot lbs. I also welded a stop block (made from a piece of angle iron) inside the lift block to prevent the bolt heads from spinning while tightening everything in place. I placed a piece of tape on the bottom of the axle and marked a reference line on it by measuring from the water tank cover to the line, this was what I used to check and maintain alignment of the axles. This project took a little over 1/2 a day with one helper.
Here is a step by step of how I did it.
Before you do anything to the axles, and to maintain Alinement, take some tape and place it on the bottom of the axle, find a “fixed point” under the trailer to measure from (I used water tank cover). Mark a line on the tape and record the distance from the fixed point. This will allow you to check this measurement once lifted.
1. Flat ground is a must
2. Hook TV to the trailer with emergency brake engaged.
3. “I” used (8) 2x8 16” long boards stacked 4 high and screwed together to make 2 riser blocks to go under the wheels of either the front or rear wheels (which ever axle I was not working on) total height of each riser is 6”
4. “I” used a floor jack to lift the trailer and place the wooden 6” risers under the tires (again of which ever axle I was not working on)
5. Now with risers in place the other axle should be hanging in the air and free to work on. DO NOT REMOVE THE TIRES or SHOCKS FROM THE HANGING AXLE this will act as a safety feature if something bad happens.
6. Using a floor jack under the axle that is hanging to support it, loosen the bolts for that side(do not remove the bolts) just looses them almost all the way
7. Lower the floor jack and repeat step 6 on the other side of the trailer
8. Now both sides of the axle should be loose and hanging by the bolts.
9. With both sides loose you can now support one side of the axle with the floor jack and remove the bolts for that side TIRE And SHOCK STILL ON THE AXLE
10. Use the floor jack to lower the axle enough to slide the lift block into place, and replace bolts and nuts. Do not tighten nuts all the way down yet. Just close to snug.
11.Go to the other side of the trailer and repeat steps 9 and 10
12.With both lift blocks in place you are now ready to snug everything up and check your alinement measurements. If All is good torque that sucker to 140 ft/lbs
13. Use the floor jack to raise the trailer and remove the wooden risers from under the tires.
14. Repeat steps 4-13 for the second axle.
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  1. Old Comment
    This is excellent. Thank you!
    Posted 02-25-2019 at 10:42 AM by kb7our kb7our is offline
  2. Old Comment
    GMFL's Avatar
    Welcome! Thanks for the kind words.
    Posted 02-26-2019 at 05:08 PM by GMFL GMFL is offline

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