30 amp SmartPlug install
Recently got my hands on a 30 amp SmartPlug connector and Inlet Kit (B30ASSY-NT) and a SmartPlug Double Coax Data Port (BDCOAXCC)
These items will replace my OEM Furrion power and Cable inlets.
Man I gotta tell you.... If weight has anything to do with Quality these NEW SmartPlug Inlets are IT!
HEAVY and SOLID! Not weak springs or rattling covers here. Positive locking retention of the cover with a satisfying “CLICK” when closed is what you’ve got here. To boot the all Marine Grade stainless steel construction looks very nice against the Airstream skin.
Ok enough gushing for now....
THE WHY
Let’s Discuss, why make the swap? Why swap out a functioning Factory 30 amp twist lock inlet and cord connector?
The power inlet on your Airstream has got to be the MOST important connection your unit has to the outside world. That’s why they call it the “umbilical”. Duh!?!
THE PROBLEM
Problems plague the the twist lock system. Poor surface contact of the connectors, loose wiggling connections, and don’t mention that dang threaded locking ring
Not having to deal with that locking ring alone is worth the swap. (Side note) You are supposed to tighten the locking all the way up. This is supposed to prevent the plug from wiggling and help with keeping rain and dirt out of the connection. The problem is, if you tighten that ring all the way tight....You May NEVER get it to unscrew again. 
Surface contact of the twist lock connectors is inhibited by their curved design. The inlet pin is not flat, it’s curved. The female clip of the cord plug is also curved. These two curved surfaces, (the pin and the clip) are not the same radius. This provides for “incomplete” contact of the two mating surfaces which creates a poor connection.
Now we should not have to go into any great detail on why a poor electrical connection is not a good idea, but the short is this. Poor connections create resistance or a restricted “flow” of electricity. This resistance creates HEAT.... HEAT IS BAD! Also the restriction in electricity can “starve” your electrical devices.
Most of us use Surge protectors to protect our trailer and things from low voltage events (often call Brown outs), but if you are going to use that type “protection” shouldn’t you make sure your trailer inlet is not the cause of the problem.
THE SOLUTION
SmartPlug has developed the solution. At least 30% more surface contact of the pins and clips and a weather tight, easy to use positive locking mechanism. When you connect the inlet and plug they lock together with a very satisfying “CLICK”. Sounds like buckling a seatbelt...
Also the cord plug end fits deep into the trailer inlet which once in place provides a weather proof connection and prevents the plug from torquing up and down, side to side.
SmartPlugs inlet pins are flat and the female clips on their cord plug are also flat. This provides the two mating surfaces (pin and clips) more positive contact. Increased surface contact provides less resistance to allow electricity to flow freely. The decrease electrical resistance means your electrical devices will be HAPPY.
THE INSTALL
The SmartPlug installation was pretty straight forward (out with the old in with the new) type install. The only issue I ran into during the installation on our 2014 23D was the fact that the 30 amp SmartPlug was deeper by about 1/2” than the wall. I was able to remedy this problem by cutting a hole in the interior skin on the trailer with a holesaw to allow the SmartPlug to recess into the wall unimpeded. I was able to do this with little effort and no problems, because my 30 amp inlet was located behind our bathroom sink. After speaking with SmartPlug tech support they said that the rear cover of the plug could have been removed and left off. This would have allowed the inlet to fit within the wall without any further modifications.
The SmartPlug is provided with clear and easy to understand instructions. The rest of the installation was pretty straight forward. All the mounting holes in the SmartPlug flange lined up perfectly with the existing factory holes.
I also installed the SmartPlug matching double coax data inlet. This inlet is shallow and required no modification to the inside wall.
I could not be happier with these SmartPlug products. SmartPlug is built like a tank and is truly a beneficial product.
In the RV market today, with all the corner cuttingnand use of inferior components, SmartPlug serves the RV community with outstanding service and a product that exceeded my expectations.
Want one? Get it here. https://www.technorv.com/smartplug-3...t/?Click=11781
Techno RV provides Great Educational Videos and Support and Super Fast Shipping. I spoke with Eric (Techno RV owner) yesterday and he stated they have the entire SmartPlug line in stock.
These items will replace my OEM Furrion power and Cable inlets.
Man I gotta tell you.... If weight has anything to do with Quality these NEW SmartPlug Inlets are IT!
HEAVY and SOLID! Not weak springs or rattling covers here. Positive locking retention of the cover with a satisfying “CLICK” when closed is what you’ve got here. To boot the all Marine Grade stainless steel construction looks very nice against the Airstream skin.
Ok enough gushing for now....
THE WHY
Let’s Discuss, why make the swap? Why swap out a functioning Factory 30 amp twist lock inlet and cord connector?
The power inlet on your Airstream has got to be the MOST important connection your unit has to the outside world. That’s why they call it the “umbilical”. Duh!?!
THE PROBLEM
Problems plague the the twist lock system. Poor surface contact of the connectors, loose wiggling connections, and don’t mention that dang threaded locking ring
Not having to deal with that locking ring alone is worth the swap. (Side note) You are supposed to tighten the locking all the way up. This is supposed to prevent the plug from wiggling and help with keeping rain and dirt out of the connection. The problem is, if you tighten that ring all the way tight....You May NEVER get it to unscrew again. Surface contact of the twist lock connectors is inhibited by their curved design. The inlet pin is not flat, it’s curved. The female clip of the cord plug is also curved. These two curved surfaces, (the pin and the clip) are not the same radius. This provides for “incomplete” contact of the two mating surfaces which creates a poor connection.
Now we should not have to go into any great detail on why a poor electrical connection is not a good idea, but the short is this. Poor connections create resistance or a restricted “flow” of electricity. This resistance creates HEAT.... HEAT IS BAD! Also the restriction in electricity can “starve” your electrical devices.
Most of us use Surge protectors to protect our trailer and things from low voltage events (often call Brown outs), but if you are going to use that type “protection” shouldn’t you make sure your trailer inlet is not the cause of the problem.
THE SOLUTION
SmartPlug has developed the solution. At least 30% more surface contact of the pins and clips and a weather tight, easy to use positive locking mechanism. When you connect the inlet and plug they lock together with a very satisfying “CLICK”. Sounds like buckling a seatbelt...
Also the cord plug end fits deep into the trailer inlet which once in place provides a weather proof connection and prevents the plug from torquing up and down, side to side.
SmartPlugs inlet pins are flat and the female clips on their cord plug are also flat. This provides the two mating surfaces (pin and clips) more positive contact. Increased surface contact provides less resistance to allow electricity to flow freely. The decrease electrical resistance means your electrical devices will be HAPPY.
THE INSTALL
The SmartPlug installation was pretty straight forward (out with the old in with the new) type install. The only issue I ran into during the installation on our 2014 23D was the fact that the 30 amp SmartPlug was deeper by about 1/2” than the wall. I was able to remedy this problem by cutting a hole in the interior skin on the trailer with a holesaw to allow the SmartPlug to recess into the wall unimpeded. I was able to do this with little effort and no problems, because my 30 amp inlet was located behind our bathroom sink. After speaking with SmartPlug tech support they said that the rear cover of the plug could have been removed and left off. This would have allowed the inlet to fit within the wall without any further modifications.
The SmartPlug is provided with clear and easy to understand instructions. The rest of the installation was pretty straight forward. All the mounting holes in the SmartPlug flange lined up perfectly with the existing factory holes.
I also installed the SmartPlug matching double coax data inlet. This inlet is shallow and required no modification to the inside wall.
I could not be happier with these SmartPlug products. SmartPlug is built like a tank and is truly a beneficial product.
In the RV market today, with all the corner cuttingnand use of inferior components, SmartPlug serves the RV community with outstanding service and a product that exceeded my expectations.
Want one? Get it here. https://www.technorv.com/smartplug-3...t/?Click=11781
Techno RV provides Great Educational Videos and Support and Super Fast Shipping. I spoke with Eric (Techno RV owner) yesterday and he stated they have the entire SmartPlug line in stock.
Total Comments 1
Comments
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Nice Ronnie. On my 23FB I cut the interior skin, on the 23d I left the back cover off like you said. Love the Smartplug.Posted 08-28-2019 at 11:04 AM by pcskier 
