1950 Liner "Weeble" - Floor installed and roof vent made
In early October 2017, we mounted and epoxied the floor and made a cap for the roof vent.
The floor is bolted with elevator bolts and nyloc nuts except where it bolts through the frame. There we used self tapping screws. We broke a few elevator bolts off in the process but that step went fairly smooth. We then picked a retro sea blue for the epoxy on the floor. It will be covered throughout most of the camper except in a few spots in access areas. Shame, I like the color.
Picture of the floor installed and epoxied:
Next we had the original heater vent tub coming out of the roof of the camper but no cap. We plan to re-use the vent for the stove top. I couldn't find a cap like the original (at least what I can find image-wise of what was original). I thought about making one hammering a sheet but with no english wheel handy, I knew it would not come out good. Then I remembered a present we got when we were married. We got a set of 10 stainless steel bowls that sat inside each other. I pulled them out of the closet where they sat for almost 20 years and found the perfect size for the cap. Then I had to convince my wife that this one bowl we never used would be happier living out its life on the roof with a view. She agreed relunctantly so I went to work. I made a tube that would fit inside the roof vent, drilled out vent holes to match. Then sliced and bent in tabs at the top for the bowl to rivet to. This was my first experience using clecos and solid rivets and I loved it.
Cap starting to take shape (the alien head):
I put solar screen in between the cap sleeve and the outer tube which gives 2 layers of screen, One across the width of the tub and one over the vent holes. We used 3 SS screws to hold them together.
Fits nicely:
Polished up nicely too:
Here it is mounted on the roof with SS screws:
Close-up:
Also made the box inset in to the belly pan to hold the tank valves and waste exit. Second project using solid rivets.
Inset box for valves:
Next hurdle which is a big one is fixing the door. It is a mess.
The floor is bolted with elevator bolts and nyloc nuts except where it bolts through the frame. There we used self tapping screws. We broke a few elevator bolts off in the process but that step went fairly smooth. We then picked a retro sea blue for the epoxy on the floor. It will be covered throughout most of the camper except in a few spots in access areas. Shame, I like the color.
Picture of the floor installed and epoxied:
Next we had the original heater vent tub coming out of the roof of the camper but no cap. We plan to re-use the vent for the stove top. I couldn't find a cap like the original (at least what I can find image-wise of what was original). I thought about making one hammering a sheet but with no english wheel handy, I knew it would not come out good. Then I remembered a present we got when we were married. We got a set of 10 stainless steel bowls that sat inside each other. I pulled them out of the closet where they sat for almost 20 years and found the perfect size for the cap. Then I had to convince my wife that this one bowl we never used would be happier living out its life on the roof with a view. She agreed relunctantly so I went to work. I made a tube that would fit inside the roof vent, drilled out vent holes to match. Then sliced and bent in tabs at the top for the bowl to rivet to. This was my first experience using clecos and solid rivets and I loved it.
Cap starting to take shape (the alien head):
I put solar screen in between the cap sleeve and the outer tube which gives 2 layers of screen, One across the width of the tub and one over the vent holes. We used 3 SS screws to hold them together.
Fits nicely:
Polished up nicely too:
Here it is mounted on the roof with SS screws:
Close-up:
Also made the box inset in to the belly pan to hold the tank valves and waste exit. Second project using solid rivets.
Inset box for valves:
Next hurdle which is a big one is fixing the door. It is a mess.
Total Comments 3
Comments
-
Please... I hope you have those trailer wheels blocked while up on the ramps and you're beneath...
Also, I hope you know that SS screws/bolts will galvanic/corrode next to aluminum unless you utilize nylon washers..? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=3010106Posted 03-26-2018 at 04:46 AM by Boxite 
-
Really REALLY nice work! (and fun reading your writings) Thx
Posted 03-26-2018 at 04:48 AM by Boxite
-
Reply
Yes, the ramps have a large lip to keep the wheels on the ramp. The front jack was also dug in to a screwed down block. Before the back belly pan sheet, I also had a 6x6 saw horse wedged under the rear to keep it from lift under weight in the back.Quote:Originally Posted by BoxitePlease... I hope you have those trailer wheels blocked while up on the ramps and you're beneath...
Also, I hope you know that SS screws/bolts will galvanic/corrode next to aluminum unless you utilize nylon washers..? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=3010106
On the SS comment - I didn’t realize galvanization on SS to aluminum was an issue. Will look into for future spots where using SS screws/bolts in the shell. Seems better to use than steel rusting out. Thanks for the info.Posted 03-26-2018 at 07:08 AM by Bowmans
Updated 03-26-2018 at 07:10 AM by Bowmans
