Box store refers to your large, home improvement store in your area. Here we have Home Depot and Lowe's. I believe I got the wall boards at Home Depot for about $30 a sheet, 4'X8' sheets. It is smooth on one side and textured on the other.

Where did you find the material for the shower walls? I'm not familiar with the term "Box Stores".

Jenny,

The blog area is usually used for travel & restoration/renovation logs. You will get better results by starting a thread in the appropriate forum. Below is where I'd post it. Just click the blue "new thread" button above the thread listings on the left. Choose your title and post your questions. Photos of what you are looking for would help. If not available then try to describe where they are used on the curtain as not all Airstreams use the same hardware on the drapery. You can also search those threads for the info you might need, maybe someone else has asked before. Just click "search this forum" on the right side and enter the word "snaps". Hope this helps.

Mary

Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > Interior Restoration Forum Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes

Ronald,
The cabinet doors will be 2.5" pine board frame with floating panel and a 90 degree snap hinges. Not sure yet if I will need latches yet since the hinges will be loaded but will see when I get there.

I will build the bathroom door the same way, pine frame and paneling and will use a closet slide at the top (like what was there but with rollers) with a pine board covering the hardware. I also plan on making a track at the bottom out of pine boards (1.5" overlapped by a 2") that will hold the door against the wall as it slides and will stop before it fully emerges from the track. I will be building this soon and will post photos... but only if it works

HAHA! I cleaned the shop right before starting on this but only the left side that is showing in photos. The other side looks like a surplus AS parts pile. If anyone needs a particular part from the 1979 era, please let me know. I can only hold onto this stuff so long before I go on a trash rampage. This includes a goucho which was fully working before taking it out. Too big to mail but if someone was close and wanted it...

Great looking job. I agree, the floating panels should absorb a lot of the wracking when going over the road. I just ordered shower pan and sink from Colaws today and should have it in a week and plan on doing just about what you have done. What are you going to do for doors? My project is '65 Overlander changing from rear bath to queen rear bedroom and center bath. Not as much room as you have but there is just two of us.

Your shop looks a lot like mine except mine is a lot messier.

Ron C.

Pink, Hey I got one too:

www.sproutbabysprout.blogspot.com

Did you finally get your baby home?

What a nice size...and she does look great!

With some good cleaner and elbow grease it's amazing how good the old vinyl can look !! Plus the old vinyl helps maintain the "retro" look that everyone likes. See, it's now hard at all to talk yourself out of it !!

I considered stripping and polishing the inside on ours for about 10 seconds. Two things stopped me (but I definately think it is beautiful when done), one was keeping it polished with the furiture inside not turning black (not even sure how to do that) and my other half said no I also considered covering the inside with copper - SO NICE! but the cost and again, got the look that said no

I thought the layering was odd as well. When I ran my coax for the new antenae down the wall, the wire I was using to pull it through got stuck going in between 2 layers and I couldn't figure out what was hanging it up. Took a couple of rivets off to find a double panel. Then when I was looking at the bathroom wallpapered aluminum walls, there was a gap behind the medicine cabinet (center bath). I stuck my hand into the gap and for as far as I could reach (2 feet in) there was the regular vinyl clad aluminum behind it. Almost removed the wallpapered aluminum but then thought the curve in the wall wouldn't fit right so just left them. More insulation value?!? maybe?

Considering what a new elec. jack will cost, I don't mind tupperware or paint caps !! Will fit in with my budget.

The interior shiny metal is cool but a biatch to obtain ! Takes lots of Nuvite and elbow grease. Originally was going to do the entire interior that way but want to get this old girl on the road by next Spring.

That color looks great!

Awesome! Love the polished look inside! If nothing else, you may be able to find a square heavy plastic tuperware or food container that can be cut to fit over the jack motor. This maybe too cheap but I have done the same with 2 spray paint caps put together with plastic bond to make a case for a battery dock for an old Jeep I had. It actually looked pretty good.

Not sure about the love part sometimes !! But thanks for the compliment. I figure if the wife kicks me out, at least I will have a place to crash!

She's a beauty!

I know what you mean about the layers....doesn't make since really. I guess they can blow and go if they don't cut each piece. It gets the job done faster..never thinking anyone would ever see back there..

Love it! Good job

Looks great! Good job... A true labor of love

Looking good u guys! What paint did you use? Keep up the good work!

Roadrunner,
Thanks! The comments motivate me to keep going. I did use the old panels as templates for some of it, the large curves mostly. First, I took the trim off the old wall panels, then test fit them to see how they fit in the camper where they would go. I would mark any areas that didn't match up and when I would cut the frame with the jigsaw, I would leave a 1/16" next to the line drawn (larger than needed). Test fit into the camper and marked where it touched the aluminum, ran back to jigsaw, trimmed some. Rinse and repeat until perfect fit. I mounted the walls using 3/4" X 3/4" strips of pine and tried to make sure the mounting strips were hidden. Some strips are 2-3 foot and around the curves, some go down to 3-4 inches to fit the curve. Most are hidden behind the plastics or cabinets. There is one at the top of the shower hall wall you can see in the photo below (painted white).


Since my frames were 3/4" boards, the aluminum channel didn't fit and I really wanted to keep it a wood and wall look. I used screws to secure the strips to both wood and aluminum wall (pre-drilling and contersinking them flush). Each large wall has about 12-15 screws into aluminum and they seem to hold really well. They flex some when I shake the camper side to side, probably since the walls are all framed with floating panels so I am hoping they don't pull out when I travel the first time :/ .

When I was framing the curved areas of the walls, I went through many possible solutions like cutting boards to the curve, angling the curved areas (you can see this in wall that will be hidden between kitchen and shower) but the best looking was just to leave the paneling exposed in the corner like the squared frame of the wall just fades into the aluminum walls. You can see this in the 3rd photo down in the original blog post above. That is how I am going to handle all exposed curve areas.

The paint is holding up well. There are a couple of spots I will need to touchup so far but due to me taking tight fitting walls in and out 5 times each to get the curve right. I hit them probably 40-50 times with only 2 breaking the paint I can tell so I am happy with that. There is only 1 more large wall the size of the bath walls, the rest get smaller so less hitting I am hoping. Take care and good luck with yours,
Tadd