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Old 02-07-2004, 02:03 PM   #4
fitzjo1
1 Rivet Member
Profile:  1968 26' Overlander
West Columbia , South Carolina
Posts: 15

I agree with the previous poster about removing exterior rivets only as a last resort. I repaired my frame separation (on a 68) by removing only the interior aluminum. And the only piece of that which I took completely off was the narrow strip under the service hatch. The other pieces were carefully pulled back. This gave more than enough room to place aluminum angle (reinforcement) and tighten the new bolts.

I removed the plywood from the rear up to the first floor rib. I cut all the seams on a 45 degree angle with a spiral saw (God bless the guy who gave me that tip!). I put the new plywood back in three pieces. The seams ran along the back edge of the first rib and the insides of both frame rails. The rectanular middle piece went first and the corners last. If you visualize it or make some sketches, you'll see which way the 45 degree edges need to face for all of this to work. Take your time, start with oversized pieces and work down gradually. If you get a tight fit, everything will be in compression and you can stand on the new floor BEFORE you even screw it down. Epoxy the seams for good measure and you'll be good to go!

Good luck and don't give up!

Jon in SC
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