Greetings All!
Electrical problems are not one of my better areas, and this one is proving difficult for a good friend who is an experienced do-it-yourselfer. The problem is as follows:
The coach has been inactive for three years while I saved for the necessary black tank replacement. Now that the tank has been replaced, I discover that there is an issue with the exterior lights -- the only functional lights on the whole coach are the left turn and brake light -- none of the clearance nor any of the right side brake/turn, clearance/running lights, or license plate lamp. The electric brakes, however, are fully functional. The following have been tried to this point:
- The 7-Pole Blade connector on the tow vehicle has been replaced with a heavy-duty 7-Pole Pin connector. The contacts in the three-year-old blade connector were very badly corroded.
- The 7-Pole Blade connector on the Overlander has been replaced with a heavy-duty 7-Pole Pin connector. The contacts in the six-year-old blade connector were very badly corroded.
No changes were noted as a result of this move -- the only lights that work are the left brake and turn signal. The electric brakes also continue to be fully functional.
- The umbilical junction box has been opened, and all of the wire nuts have been checked for tightness as well as for obvious signs of corrossion.
- One question has arisen regarding a "black box" into which the blue wire from the umbilical is connected -- is this an automatic reset circuit breaker, and it is something that might need to be replaced?
- No changes were noted as a result of these steps.
- The right rear tailight was removed, and a new LED replacement unit was temporarily installed. There was no change -- still nothing from this location.
- One of the clearance lights on the front of the trailer had a bad bulb and the socket was badly corroded. The socket was cleaned and a new bulb installed with no change in the operation of the running lights (none functioning).
Our plan of attack for tomorrow is:
- Re-work the connections in the umbilical junction box. Is there any consensus on whether it would be better to continue with new wire nuts? -- or would it be better to utilize crimp connectors?
- Re-work clearance and marker light connections starting with the two suspicious lights first. Does anyone know the order in which the marker and clearance lights are daisy-chained??
- Replace license plate lamp and holder with new stainless steel reproduction. The current assembly is very rusty despite having been purchased new from Airstream less than seven years ago. The current lamp does not illuminate, but my guess is that it is daisy-chained with the running lights.
- My friend and I are both baffled about the right side brake and turn signal. If re-working the umbilical junction box does not solve the problem, any ideas on where or what to try next??
I am not certain whether any of the following facts would have any impact on the trouble-shooting process, so thought that I would list them.- All three house batteries are present and fully charged.
- The solar system is functioning perfectly.
- All interior 12-volt appliances and accessories are functioning properly.
- The Trace Inverter/Charger system is operating as designed.
- When departing a primitive campground on the first trip of the season, two loose wires on the A-Frame hitch caught in some weeds and were pulled away from the hitch. They do not appear to have been pulled out of their places in the umbilical junction box. They appear to be the wires for the breakaway switch, but this isn't certain as the electric jack is another accessory that was installed six years ago.
- Since the above incident, the electric jack has protested operating twice. Both times, it responded properly when tried a few hours later.
Any hints or tips on how next to proceed will certainly be appreciated!! Kevin