Thread: Heat in winter
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:01 PM   #31
CrawfordGene
Rivet Master

Profile:  2008 25' Safari FB SE
Crawford , Colorado
Posts: 2,958

'Westfalia, don't do it. The bubble wrap would likely melt into a gooey glob if it didn't catch fire.

Doesn't some of the noise come from the air passing over the flexible tubing with all the ribs in it? It also slows down the air. A smooth tube is more efficient and quieter unless you want to have it go around things in a tight space, like, say, an RV. The only places I've seen the duct it was the flexible, ribbed type; maybe in other places it's not.

There isn't that much temp differential in our Safari and maybe it depends on the floor plan and how they run the ducts. We like a cool, even cold, bedroom, so I'd like more difference between the bedroom and the kitchen/dinette. You just can't please anyone. And the register in the bathroom blows cool air and I'm guessing it goes through the water tank area to heat them and there's just not much BTU left when it gets to the bathroom (why I am I calling it a bathroom?—it doesn't have a bathtub or even a shower).

I agree with Safari 28 the heater/AC system is pretty primitive. The insulation is too and the metal structure transmits cold or hot air from outside to inside very effectively, there are no thermal breaks. If I were going to do it again, I wouldn't get the panoramic windows in the front because we don't look through them much and they transmit whatever we don't want inside. All the windows are single pane. The curtains are thin. The blinds have nearly zero insulating use. Someday we have to look into cellular shades for the windows—they will help. Lining the curtains seems like a way to make them hard to open and close. Maybe Barb can figure that out; I can barely sew a button onto a shirt (I'm good with a vacuum though).

Gene
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