Quote:
|
Originally Posted by malconium
Todd,
If you will not have access that allows you to use elevator bolts I think that self-drilling self-tapping screws should work. They are less likely to pop loose with the thicker frame metal that you are using than they would be with the thiner metal of the original style cross members. I bought my screws at Home Depot. I have attached a photo of the two sizes of screws that I bought that shows the product name and sizes. You might want to consider using just the longer ones in the photo for more thread. I only used these for places where the floor was thicker because of the fender wells being under the floor. You can see that the longer screws are for securing material that is 3/4" plus thick while the shorter ones are for securing material that is 3/4" and less. Also for the thicker metal you are using you might find that it is a good idea to drill a pilot hole before you run the screw in. I did not have to for the normal cross members but I did for the heavier angle iron over the water tank.
Malcolm
|
Malcolm & Steve, you both have raised a very good point. One that I missed. I'm glad you pointed it out. I wonder if I should have the welder cut-out part of the tube in the front and in the back so I can use the elevator bolts? Actually I don't think the extreme front cross-member is attached yet. So possibly I could still use channel in that location. On the other hand most of the elevator bolts had completely rusted through on my rig and "somehow" it was remaining attached! Since the tube is much more stable do you think it'll still be susceptible to pop?