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SRW · 02-20-2008, 08:11 PM

I should mention that my Tundra has a camera that looks right at the hitch receiving box, making it easy to line up side to side.

The wife stands at the hitch and makes any final up/down adjustment, which you cannot determine via the camera.

.....usually the hitch bar goes right in.

Of course, it took us hours and hours the first time, but now only minutes.

Camera or no camera using the spring bars to orientate the orange hitch box seems so counter intuitive ar first.

I still recommend a tailgate camera as an option.

SRW · 02-20-2008, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

http://www.hensleymfg.com/Documents/...nualmedres.pdf

Ask and you recieve in hahaland.

Good luck

Bob

Thanks for the link.

2airishuman · 02-20-2008, 08:14 PM

everyone SHOULD download the offical manual from any of the multiple links in this thread...

but...

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRW

...You referenced a "user manual"earlier, where is that available?...

THIS is the users guide! right here bro! we users 'guide' other users...

you likely purchased zerk nipples, not the entire fitting.

see the picture i linked earlier, and go back n read the posts referenced.

already lots of info here on zerks, how they fail, how to insert them and so on...

cheers
2air'

ROBERT CROSS · 02-20-2008, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

everyone SHOULD download the offical manual from any of the multiple links in this thread...

but...

THIS is the users guide! right here bro! we users 'guide' other users...

you likely purchased zerk nipples, not the entire fitting.

see the picture i linked earlier, and go back n read the posts referenced.

already lots of info here on zerks, how they fail, how to insert them and so on...

cheers
2air'

Air.....your so full of KARMA... I can't fit no more in

millvalleyca · 02-20-2008, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRW

I should mention that my Tundra has a camera that looks right at the hitch receiving box, making it easy to line up side to side.

The wife stands at the hitch and makes any final up/down adjustment, which you cannot determine via the camera.

.....usually the hitch bar goes right in.

Of course, it took us hours and hours the first time, but now only minutes.

Camera or no camera using the spring bars to orientate the orange hitch box seems so counter intuitive ar first.

I still recommend a tailgate camera as an option.

I'm glad we're not the only ones.....it took us forever to hook up for the first time this past weekend.

I tried using the the line up poles but because our drive way is so uneven they didn't help. (the truck tips one way and the trailer the other)

We didn't want to embarrass ourselves in front of our friends so we didn't un-hitch our $3,000.00 HAHA when we reached our campsite

I'm confident it will get better!

2airishuman · 02-20-2008, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRW

...using the spring bars to orientate the orange hitch box seems so counter intuitive ar first....

Quote:

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

I'm glad we're not the only ones.....it took us forever to hook up for the first time this past weekend.

I tried using the the line up poles but because our drive way is so uneven they didn't help. (the truck tips one way and the trailer the other)...

yep, it took me forever a few times too, i do it solo.

using the jacks/springbars does take practice.

millva' did you check out the pics in post #30 n #34?

that's a pretty good example of tilting opposite directions,

and using the spring bar to 'tilt' the trailer into the truck's slope.

while using the neon rods as a visual aid...

keep at it!

2air'

SRW · 02-21-2008, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

everyone SHOULD download the offical manual from any of the multiple links in this thread...

but...

THIS is the users guide! right here bro! we users 'guide' other users...

you likely purchased zerk nipples, not the entire fitting.

see the picture i linked earlier, and go back n read the posts referenced.

already lots of info here on zerks, how they fail, how to insert them and so on...

cheers
2air'

OK.

SRW · 02-21-2008, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

everyone SHOULD download the offical manual from any of the multiple links in this thread...

but...

THIS is the users guide! right here bro! we users 'guide' other users...

you likely purchased zerk nipples, not the entire fitting.

see the picture i linked earlier, and go back n read the posts referenced.

already lots of info here on zerks, how they fail, how to insert them and so on...

cheers
2air'

2Air:

Right again.

Why am I not surprised.

I have bought a few (whole) zerk fittings from Hensly, or rather they are sending free of cost considering the haha is still under warranty.

And I learned that the concealed end of the zerk is the thing keeping the tension bars from falling out when they are not under tension.

Although, I still don't know why they go bad in the first place.

I also bought Hensly's small "bag-o-spare" parts.

SRW

ROBERT CROSS · 02-21-2008, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRW

2Air:

Right again.

Why am I not surprised.

Although, I still don't know why they go bad in the first place.

SRW

They be not adjusted properly, to tight. Breaks the ends right off when

turning....opps. A lot of us have done it. Why do 'ya think they call 'em

spares.

SRW · 03-04-2008, 09:01 PM

In response to info provided by 2Air I ordered a bag of replacement parts from Hensly. When I mentioned that I was having difficulting getting grease into one of the zerks they included a couple of complete zerk fittings in addition to the one in the bag.

Ok, now what?

I mean what steps should I follow in removing the "bad" zerk and replacing it with a new one.

I understand that it should not be to tight, but how will I know when its tight enough?

Also, if the tip of the zerk fits into a grove of the bar how do you know when the bar is in enough? Do you push the bar in until it stops?

SRW

Also, what are the chnaces of the bar falling out when I remove the zerk?

2airishuman · 03-04-2008, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRW

Ok, now what?...?

hi srw

page 14 of the haha installation manual covers the zerks...

the installation manual is linked as a pdf file here is post #7.

here is my version...

1. loosen the jacks until they are 'sloppy loose'
2. disconnect 1 spring bar from the jack assembles (pull the spring pins)
3. swing 1 spring bar wide and forward toward the tow vehicle.
4. the spring bar SHOULD slide down and out of the bushing now; if it doesn't continue to step 5/6 while SUPPORTING the spring bar.
5. loosen the 'lock nut' on the grease zerk
6. unscrew the zerk.
7. inspect zerk for wear/damage and test the tip/spring mechanism
8. replace zerk, screw in just far enough that the inner nipple is a few mm inside the bushing.
....a long finger inserted into the bushing will feel inner zerk tip.
9. tighten the lock nut, while holding the zerk stationary.
10. liberally grease the spring bar head and
11. with the spring bar rotated forward insert it into the bushing and push UP
12. rotate the spring bar wide and backward toward the trailer/tongue
13. reconnect to the lower jack extension and replace the spring pin.

basically that's the process

IF the zerk is OVER inserted the spring bar will not fit completely up inside the bushing or will not rotate back.

IF the zerk is UNDER inserted the spring bar will fall out.

look back at the pix around post #90, there is a groove in the spring bar, where the inner zerk tip fits.

this is pretty straight forward. take a look at the diagram on page 14 in the installation manual.

cheers
2air'

SRW · 03-04-2008, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

........this is pretty straight forward. take a look at the diagram on page 14 in the installation manual.

cheers
2air'

2Air:

Can't say how much I appreciate your willingness to help, not to mention that the quality of the information you have provided is outstanding.

I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

SRW

slowmover · 03-05-2008, 07:54 AM

I have a grease gun that is one-handed for pumping, and that I strongly recommend along with a swivel or two. This makes for much easier work when the second hand has to hold the tip onto the zerk (or, when one is using a needle tip, etc)

NAPA Item#: BK 7151230

I prefer a long fiber grease, and use SCHAEFFERS #268

As to electric drills, the Weatherford, TX A/S dealer told me that they get a full years use out of a RYOBI used and abused daily. I picked up one (18V) with flashlight, charger, case, etc for around $70.

SRW · 03-12-2008, 07:07 PM

Any thoughts on changing drum brakes to disc?

My 28' International has elec. drum and they can be replaced with hydraulic disc brakes.

Friends have converted theirs and felt the results are worth it.

Also, when making a brake change larger rims could be installed and Michelin tires used.

Not cheap though.

2airishuman · 03-12-2008, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRW

Any thoughts on changing drum brakes to disc?...

please lets not get into the tire size issue in a hitch thread. there is a section JUST on wheels/tires.

the disc breaks work great and are also well covered...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ide-26749.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...kes-29208.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ler-31649.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...kes-17343.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...kes-36335.html

so read these or search IN the brake/brake controller sub forums...

and IF you ask a disc brake question in ANY of those theads, i'm sure the replies will roll on in.

NOW on the haha srw....

did you get that ONE zerk changed? was it ground down? got any pictures?

cheer
2air'

TROPHYJIM2 · 03-12-2008, 09:34 PM

Contact with Sean today and all parts and materials are in house , he is in production with the new Hensley Design at this time. I e-mailed him to ask if the Rock Tamers would fit with this new design in that I know others here had to make adjustments with the Arrow to fit with the RTs
Sean called me and indicated he had just spoken with the Enkay folks and is making sure the fit will be correct since he believes many of the users of his new hitch will also be users of the RTs. Weird, but Sean was on the phone with Enkay when he got my e-mail and just had to call me to tell me how strange it was that I had e-mailed him at that exact time about the RT's

Jim

2airishuman · 03-12-2008, 09:42 PM

but THIS isn't the propride thread either...

HERE it is for now...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ach-37994.html

while the design concepts are common, ALL of the bits are different.

once we've got some of the other hitch in hand, USERS will have another thread for the other hitch...

i really don't wanna see THIS thread degraded into bullcrap discussions about theory, cost, comparisons and so on...

imo the VALUE of this thread is that NONE of that nonsense is posted here.

mostly it's about USER TIPS and tricks specific to ONE PRODUCT...

IF we have to wade through other hitches and other topics to find the haha stuff...

well, it might as well become a game thread.

there are 20 other threads on hensleys FULL of arguements and useless sidetracks...

any of those threads would be a wonderful place for NON OWNERS to battle with MAYBE OWNERS...

take a LOOK at the hitch subforum and just throw a dart...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...esc&sort=views

cheers
2air'

SRW · 03-13-2008, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

did you get that ONE zerk changed? was it ground down? got any pictures?

cheer
2air'

2Air:

I did get the nonfunctioning zerk replaced.

Using your direction as a guide, I removed the spring bar.

After I removed the spring bar I could feel that the inside "nib" of the zerk was worn and would no longer depress.

Also, the zerk would not unscrew, hanging up about halfway removed, probably due to the damaged threads.

Score Zerks 14; SRW 7.

I spoke with a Tech at Hensley and screwed a second nut on the zerk's barrel and tightened the two nuts together. Putting the wrench on the inside nut it then unscrewed relatively easily.

Reassembled and regreased, no problem. The spring bar snapped right in with the zerk poking about 3/8" into the spring bar's hole.

Final score Zerks 14; SRW 21.

Thanks for the help.

2airishuman · 03-13-2008, 06:01 PM

nice pix!

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRW

...Final score Zerks 14; SRW 21...

alright, we've got a victory here!

good 4 you!

that '2nd nut/lock nut trick is handy and good stuff for the user guide.

i would have probably just grabbed the vice grips, or a hammer!

the zerk has a smallhexed surface that can be used but might not be enough bite, for tough removals.

now you should have easy greasin' ahead...

and don't skimp on the grease!

cheers
2air'