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AYRSTRM2 · 05-31-2006, 10:33 AM

Rodney, check with VTS they have some good how to's on the Cornings, and you should drop them an email with any detailed questions. Steve has always answered mine very well.

Boondocker · 06-05-2006, 11:24 AM

Ok, so I have a new problem that I need help with. I have a gas oder that I have tracked down to my range top (turning off the stop cock by the burners stops the smell). Pilot is working fine. Cant find the source of the smell. Is this a common problem for this stove? ideas (other than dont leave the gas on?). Thanks

Boondocker · 08-28-2006, 07:29 AM

Its hard to believe I have had the Trade Wind for just over a year now. Not a bad year at all for camping. First night aboard was on Lake Huron, then a couple weeks of local camping-commuting on to campus every day. Then it was off to Yellowstone with mom for her 70th birthday last Oct (fantastic time to be in the park btw). Started full timing back on April 1st (I know funny choice of date) and look to stay until the end of Oct. Went to my first forum rally, spent a couple weeks in the Smokies, and one more forum rally here at the end of Sept. And yesterday I finally got the oven to work (there is this little screw….

The last year has been a hoot, and I am sure it will just keep getting better. Special thanks to everyone for helping me with the search and especially AYRSTRM2 for the onsite look, and for all the hand holding everyone provided through axles, tires, refrigerator replacement….. well you get the idea.

AYRSTRM2 · 08-30-2006, 03:34 PM

Hey, it was my pleasure. Getting this babies on the road and using them to have a good time camping is what they were meant for and it's awesome that that's just what you've gotten to do.

Now, get it road ready so you can bring to next year's Metro-Detroit Rally, probably going to be the first week of August and probably near Frankenmuth. I want to see what you've done to it!

sequoiacoast · 10-12-2006, 09:34 PM

Hey did you ever get your windows figured out? I have just replaced all the window gaskets, installed 2 new windows, and removed/re-installed one window. And the sad thing is I've had most of the supplies needed for 6+ months.. but was just a little intimidated!

Do you still need the size of the b/w tank, I was lazy at the time I read your post and then forgot to look it up later!

Hope all is well! And it IS good to be a member of the coolest club: '68 Tradewind, that is

!

Boondocker · 10-13-2006, 08:12 AM

I havent done alot with the windows but all but the rear one is functional. Maybe over the winter..... I cant even remember why I wanted to know about the black tank, though I guess it is somewhere in the 8 gallon range, plenty big for me to go about a week. After the 30 degree night last night, I find new motivation to get that replacement furnace in let me tell you! I have electric but I dont know how much below 30 it will hang. I wonder if the furnace and a catalitic would be over kill? Might be nice to have some battery non-dependant heat.

sequoiacoast · 10-13-2006, 09:19 AM

If memory serves me correctly you and I bought the same replacement furnace: the small in size Suburban? I don't recall the number at the moment but I think you were going to build stand... Where are you with it?

We have built a stand, and had to cut one of the exhaust/intake holes larger to accommodate the new furnace. The thing we haven't remedied yet is how the new unit will connect to the old floor "chase". If you have it worked out let me know. Or if you'd like to see what ours looks like at this stage I'll get a picture for you.

Boondocker · 10-13-2006, 11:37 AM

Im working on that right now as a matter of fact, I would love to see pictures of your approach

sequoiacoast · 10-13-2006, 06:07 PM

Hi, I got distracted cleaning the garage and will take/post pics in the next few hours. Hope everything went well today!

sequoiacoast · 10-14-2006, 11:06 AM

Hey, so here's a few pictures of the stand.

Boondocker · 02-27-2007, 11:30 AM

OK, it is time to start on this springs upgrades and repairs. Here is a partial list of items under consideration.

1)Plumb coach with PEX. Priority: high. Over the last four decades the water system has become one large patch. I think it will be best to simply redo the system. I think I will take the examples I have seen here and do the color coded system. Comments on crimped vs. snap in systems?
2)Install furnace that has been in the back of my truck forever now. Priority: high.
3)Replace carpeting with wood laminate floor. Priority: medium.
4)Replace univolt with ‘smart’ inverter. Priority low/medium.
The unit in place is functioning and I am only considering replacement for a couple reasons .First, it is going on 40 years old now and that worries me. Second, the hum is bothersome. Third, noise from the unit makes my stereo all static (I think this is what is going on based on others postings here), and finally, I understand the new ones are easier on the batteries.
5)Replace awning with Zip Dee and make awnings for the individual windows. Priority: medium/high. I understand that this is an install that I can do. Any comments? Also, I saw where some of you were taking extra awning material and making individual window shades with snaps on the outside of the trailer and the windows holding up the shade. How are these working out? Would you do it again?
6)Strip remaining clear coat & Polish. Priority: low/medium. The outside of my camper is starting to look iffy so I thought I would strip the clear coat and do some level of polishing (not necessarily mirror level). What is the best clear coat stripper? What kind of money am I looking at for materials?
7)Refurbish/replace front window cover. Priority: medium. This one is a problem for me. The cover/rock guard is cracked and faded. Can I get a new one of these? If so where? Or am I looking at some kind of fabrication issue?
8)Refurbish/replace front Airstream logos. Priority: medium. The story here is that the nameplate is faded and I would prefer that it be like new. I see that vintage trailer has these for something like $25, but I have also seen a post where someone repainted this themselves, any idea which way is best to go?
9)Get water heater working for a change. Priority: high.
10)Replace drapes and upholstery. Priority: low. The full blown upholstering looks awful expensive to me. I will probably try to find an inexpensive short term and put off the major fix a few more seasons. Suggestions?
11)I will also be caulking all the seams and such this spring. Input welcome.

AYRSTRM2 · 02-27-2007, 12:01 PM

Hiya, Rod! Since I a)own a similar size and vintage coach, and b)have personally inspected yours, here's my recommendations:

1)Yes, and put in a Hot water bypass while you're at it. Use snap ins, should be easier all around.

2)yep, if you've got it. Just get it checked for leaks.

3)Your call, no opinion.

4)Oh, do this for sure. I got an Iota two stage last year, but get a new one none the less, you'll be glad you did.

5)That will be a cool addition. Pricy for sure, but cool.

6)Not a fan of polishing, but if it's what you want...

7)Inland sells this, for about $300 I think. It will fit, you can install it, it will work good. You could fab it too, after looking at it, here's what it is: Large piece of smoked lexan, with aluminum channel around it and a rubber gasket to protect the AS skin. Piano hinge on the top, swing arms with wing nuts hold it up. Only specialized piece is the rubber hold downs to keep it tight while driving. Don't remember what yours had. I could look at the old pictures to see if it's workable. My recommendation: If you can put in a piece of smoked lexan you'd save yourself about $250. With all of the high tech glues, and the materials and tools you can pick up a Home Depot, you ought to be able to come up with something.

9)yep, see #1

10)We have Polo brand sheets as upholstery covers...bought on clearance and they have a cool cabin look to them. Get ones made of cotton or jersey material.

11)At least do the window seams at the top, and the top of the awning channel.

Boondocker · 02-27-2007, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2

7)Inland sells this, for about $300 I think. It will fit, you can install it, it will work good. You could fab it too, after looking at it, here's what it is: Large piece of smoked lexan, with aluminum channel around it and a rubber gasket to protect the AS skin. Piano hinge on the top, swing arms with wing nuts hold it up. Only specialized piece is the rubber hold downs to keep it tight while driving. Don't remember what yours had. I could look at the old pictures to see if it's workable. My recommendation: If you can put in a piece of smoked lexan you'd save yourself about $250. With all of the high tech glues, and the materials and tools you can pick up a Home Depot, you ought to be able to come up with something.

Mine is a green fiberglass sorta deal. Faded out (see below). Thanks for the other tips, good advice all. And thanks again for checking this one out for me

. Hard to believe it has been a year and a half.

AYRSTRM2 · 02-27-2007, 12:14 PM

I'll see if my pics I took show me anything else. I think this could be modded very satisfactory.

Oops, I forgot #8: I keep telling myself to do this. If you are absolutely sure you can prevent overspray, I say go for the refurb. Of course, maybe you could sell the old one on ebay and buy the new ones and have money left over. wouldn't be the first time this worked.

Boondocker · 02-27-2007, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2

I'll see if my pics I took show me anything else. I think this could be modded very satisfactory.

Oops, I forgot #8: I keep telling myself to do this. If you are absolutely sure you can prevent overspray, I say go for the refurb. Of course, maybe you could sell the old one on ebay and buy the new ones and have money left over. wouldn't be the first time this worked.

I FINALLY found the one of the threads I knew I had seen about this. Looks like the process is: 1) mask off the surround and the letters, 2) after cleaning with mineral spirits, spray with Rustolium Royal Blue, 3) buff and clean. Sound about right?

Boondocker · 02-27-2007, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

4)Replace univolt with ‘smart’ inverter. Priority low/medium.
The unit in place is functioning and I am only considering replacement for a couple reasons .First, it is going on 40 years old now and that worries me. Second, the hum is bothersome. Third, noise from the unit makes my stereo all static (I think this is what is going on based on others postings here), and finally, I understand the new ones are easier on the batteries.

Can anyone tell me what to think about when selecting the correct unit? I went to the bestconverter site (I think thats it) and was bewildered by the selection

. If it is of importance, I have also orderd a Yamaha 2400is to use with the camper while boondocking......

Tarheel · 02-27-2007, 02:21 PM

I had sun shades made for all of my awnings, seemed like over kill until I was on the hot pavement at Salem, Oregon. The one on the big awning is about 5' tall and 20' long offset so you can go out from under the awning without moving the sunscreen. The other sunscreens attach to the awnings and are only about 3' tall, this is enough to keep the sun off the windows and still allow visibility. Depending on how and where you are using your unit you may want to consider sunscreens.
Rick

Boondocker · 02-27-2007, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tarheel

I had sun shades made for all of my awnings, seemed like over kill until I was on the hot pavement at Salem, Oregon. The one on the big awning is about 5' tall and 20' long offset so you can go out from under the awning without moving the sunscreen. The other sunscreens attach to the awnings and are only about 3' tall, this is enough to keep the sun off the windows and still allow visibility. Depending on how and where you are using your unit you may want to consider sunscreens.
Rick

Hi Rick, I'm not sure I understand what you mean by sunscreens, can you post an image or something?

Marti · 02-27-2007, 03:06 PM

I have a similair box on the back of my overlander.... I plan on keeping it.. good for my husband tools and maybe even him!! just kidding he has to drive...

Boondocker · 02-27-2007, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

I FINALLY found the one of the threads I knew I had seen about this. Looks like the process is: 1) mask off the surround and the letters, 2) after cleaning with mineral spirits, spray with Rustolium Royal Blue, 3) buff and clean. Sound about right?

After I got home, I went out the the Trade Wind and looked at the front plate. The edges and lettering appear to have had had what looks like chome plating or something. Does this sound right for a 68? If so, is the way to go just to polish down to metal at those points?