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level is important, BUT....
you'll never get a vintage Airstream level. There's always a little bit of droop from front to back, and in many cases some twist, too. Having done cabinets in 4 vintage Airstreams (16', 18', 27', and 31') I try to remember the following:
1. Remember that the only things that worry about precise level are the fridge and the frying pan, the fridge less so. I assume the fridge is near or across the isle from the countertop, so when I set up to install new interiors, I level the floor under the kitchen countertop.
2. If you want square drawers, build that cabinet outside in the shop (and square), then install it with shims, if necessary, to get it "level" and tight to the floor and shell.
3. Use the front of that cabinet as your vertical. I say this because if you are installing new partitions (isn't it fun cutting every durn one of them to fit the shell?), matching the angle of their vertical edge along the isle is more important than getting each one at 90 degrees to the floor at its location. You can use a cheap laser level in the vertical mode to match the first partition to ones further from the kitchen.
4. The drawer cabinet will naturally establish horizontal for the countertop, which should be parallel to the floor there. And the fridge should be happy, too. It'll be within a degree or two of level if the countertop is level. The floor isn't the only reference. You will notice right away when you put the countertop on the cabinets, the line between the bottom of the windows and the counter. This line might be more important to you than the floor--it is to me. It really doesn't matter if you match to the windows instead of the floor--when you comply with #6 below you'll be happy when you cook.
5. You'll never notice it if the bed winds up tilted a little (it's probably on the other side of the axle from the kitchen, so it's going to have some droop), one way or the other. We're only talking about 3 degrees or so of droop.
6. When you park, throw the bubble level on top of the coutertop to judge level--you'll be thankful you did when you're frying those over easy eggs or hoping the latest spill on the countertop doesn't take off like it's shooting the rapids.
7. Be careful about attaching cabinets to each other that are built as "boxes" , eg, that have a back to them (this makes them very stiff and unable to flex in a fore to aft direction, as you face them). Remember that the trailer flexes significantly over bumps. Cabinets that are built as boxes and are tightly attached side by side act as a long beam and will try to resist this flexing. They will break or screws with tear out. The answer is to build them with sides and a top (the floor, if you screw the sides into the floor, becomes the bottom), but no back. This allows them to flex as a parallelogram and relieve any stress from the flexing (nose to tail) of the trailer. It's OK to have really sturdy cabinets, but they need to have a "parallelogram" in between each of them. This could be something like horizontal shelves (what other kind are there, he asks redundantly) that are attached to the "boxes" on either side.
Have fun!
Zep
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