[mswartz]

Prefacing this post by saying that I intend to keep this trailer for a long time. Was hoping to be out on vacation with it at this time of the year, but the trailer condition dictated otherwise. Pre-trip inspection results have kept me at home, at work and spending money.

I'm replacing all the belly below the beltline and much of the insulation on my '01 Bambi. This is due to (1) sagging belly from the aluminum rivets falling out as they corroded apart in the steel frame, (2) the aluminum belly corroding out where it was in contact with the frame, and (3) the corrosion on the frame from gaps, missing rivets and corrosion holes in the belly.

The shocks and axle were removed, due to the shocks being rotted and the need to remove the axle to clean it up, to remove the remainder of the bellypan and to access the rusting frame for cleanup and paint.

I purchased new A/S shocks, and scraped, primed and painted the axle. It is now waiting for the belly to be done. The frame is in pretty solid condition, but will require alot of rust removal and alot of clean/prime/prep/paint. Then fiberglass insulation in all the right places.

For the bellypan material, I've got to decide if I'm going to go with the 5052 aluminum sheet for the central parts. Anyone have any experience using the 5052 for the belly? I would like to go with all 304 stainless, but probably can't afford it.

I've already decided to go with 22 gage type 304 stainless to replace all the dark grey aluminum transitioning from the belly wrap to the frame. Anything thicker will be hard to form, and lighter may not be suitable.

All belly metal will be isolated from the frame by butyl or neoprene rubber, and attached with either stainless rivets or stainless screws, all with rubber/stainless washers under the heads. Any suggestions on the isolation material? I was thinking of using either 2-in wide Scotch 23 tape, or some kind of butyl rubber, but whatever it is I want it to keep a sealed gap between the painted frame member and the bellpan material.

While the axle was off, I removed the brakes and purchased the Actibrake with Kodiak disk brakes from Inland RV. Any suggestions as to mounting location of the Actibrake actuator unit? I am considering mounting it inside my trailer.

I found both outer tubes of the shocks nearly completely rotted out. These Gabriel units are not even lightly coated with anti-corrosion material and don't hold up well. Both shocks have been replaced.

While removing the shocks, after several days of penetrating oil and mechanical shock, all the 1/2-13 nuts came off the studs, except for the curbside stud on the axle ear. The thread sheared off the stud. I ended up grinding it down, boring out the existing stud and tapping to 5/16-18 thread and will use a grade 5 bolt/washer combo to replace it.

I also removed all the propane line and will replace all of it. I've purchased all new 3/8 and 5/8 copper tube and all the fittings, along with new type 316 stainless clips with neoprene jacket. Many, perhaps half, of the plastic-coated clips that were screwed into the belly, some into the frame, corroded out and were either loose or missing entirely. The propane line running from just in front of the curbside wheelwell had been rubbing against the bevel-cut forward edge of the axle mounting plate, and had nearly cut through the copper. It had also crushed the line and could have been one reason for my frequent gas-operation problems with the refrigerator.

Having lived in the Northeast with the Bambi since it was new in Sept 2000, the road salt and salt air (I live near the ocean) takes its toll. However, I still get mad that the frame of my Bambi was so poorly painted by the vendor that it rusts as it does.

Any and all comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.