[uwe]

Originally Posted by malconium

I am getting close to being ready to start building a totally new interior for my 1973 31' AS. I do have some of the curved aluminum exstrusion strips that were used to attach interior partitions and cabinets to the inner walls of the AS. I am not sure that I have all of the originals, though. Also I have not made up my mind about the type of construction to use for the cabinets and interior partitions. See the following thread for some discusion I started on alternative construciton:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=14691

What I would really like to discuss at this point is what my options are for attaching the interior partitions to the inside skin of the AS. So here are some questions:

1.) Do you know of a source for the original type aluminum extrustions in case I need more than what I have and decide to go that route?

No.

Originally Posted by malconium

2.) Do you know of an alternative type of extrustion - either metal or maybe even plastic that could be used? Would it be hard to bend them? What about extrusions for a different thickness of material such as 1/8" or 1/4" (the original was 3/16" I think)?

It depends on whether the divider is a wall, visible from both sides, or part of a closet. If it is a divider wall, then often other furnishings meet it above and below. I think it would be safe to fasten the divider inside an overhead bin against the wall, and underneath inside a cupboard or closet again against the wall, using 3/4 aluminum angle ( Home Depot) cut into 1" sections. Fasten to the wall with 2 pop rivets, and to the divider with a suitable screw, or another rivet.
If it is visible in it's entirety where it meets the wall, the you're best off saving the existing axtrusions for those areas.

Originally Posted by malconium

3.) What alternative attachement techniques have you used and how have they worked out?

I have used the above described technique before, on my 1971. It woked great when fastened about every 8-12in or so. I will build out my Overlander in the same way. I will use flexible edge molding ( u-shape) over the wood edge where it meets the wall to make a clean transition between the wall and the wood.

Originally Posted by malconium

4.) Do you think it is important to have some slip or flex between the inner partitions and the inner aluminum skin? Would it be OK if the inner partions were more rigidly attached than they are with the aluminum extrusions?

Absolutely keep it somewhat flexible. Too many fasteners will eventually cause problems from the shell flexing. The furniture can be strong within itself, but then the fastening method must allow for some give.
You can do a lot with 040 skin remnants and an 18in bench brake. You can make off-angle brackets for the overheads, brackets for furniture to wall fastening, and all sorts of other nonsense.

There's more, but I don't know which route you will go.