[Over59]

I'm not seeing if you are removing the inside shell to remove the old fiberglass insulation. This is the source of much smell. Do it before you lift the shell and it will be lighter. Wear a mask, you don't want to be inhaling dried mice dirt when you take the interior walls off. I think this is essential when you are going to all the trouble to do a shell off.

I don't understand the bolt thing and weldnut or wood screws. You will need an attachment from the floor to the shell and belly pan. A 1.5 x 1.5 bent piece of sheet aluminum will work. This is attached to the floor / out rigger with elevator bolts. Between these I used full thread 1" deck screws, drilled 1/8" holes in the aluminum to start them.

Have you gotten past the hidden rivets? These attach the belly pan to the ribs up under the exterior shell. Nasty surpirse. The shell lifts easily if "all" the rivets are out. Vulkem may give some sticking between the well wheels and shell.

I don't think you ever had a grey tank and maybe not a black tank. Plan ahead. It you are replacing cross members then check tank depot for tanks that you could use by moving the position of the cross members a few inches. A lot cheaper than custom tanks. You could also use a single grey / black tank.

Do you have trim over the wheel well shell line. These have some hard to find rivets also. If something doesn't move with alittle force look for rivets. The old guys that put these together are sitting in the nursing home laughing their .. off thinking about blind rivets.

Save a template of the belly pan around the wheel well, how it comes up to the shell.

5/8 marine plywood is more than enough, just treat it like Ken. If you use another thickness then things start to not line up.


Good Luck.

PS. how many cross members do you need, I had some made up and didn't use then all.